TRADITIONAL COSTUME OF THE LOTUD, TUARAN
 | The Lotud people are one of the Dusunic groups of Sabah. Lotud women are skilled in producing the embroidered panel called linangkit which is used to decorate the knee-length skirt, circular sash and trousers of their traditional costumes. |
Costume of Women
Worn by the priestesses (tantagas) and other women during ceremonies, festive and social occasions.
Sukub kopio Long-sleeved black cotton tailored blouse, with red tinobogi stitchwork at the seams. Tinobogi is a needle weaving technique of interlaced flanel stitches. A curvilinear motif of a bamboo shoot with sequins decorates the cuffs. The gold thread is "couched" onto the fabric. The sukub is closed with brooches of golden coins (tombuku).
Gonob Knee-length black cotton tube skirt. Around the hips is a strip of tinobogi stitchwork and from the waist down a panel of linangkit needle work. The gonob is held up by a strip of white cloth (or haboi, kain). Sometimes, a batik sarong is worn over the short gonob to avoid exposure of the legs.
Kuluwu Circular sash of black fabric, silk or synthetic, with gold trimming along the edges. At the seam a wide band of linangLit. During lengthy sitting-down ceremonies, the women may sling the circular kuluwu around their back and bend their knees to make the crouched position less tiring.
Sinugitan Knee-length dark coloured skirt worn by the tantagas. Made from cotton, the cloth is very old, the material likely to have been imported a long time ago.
Accessories
Lilimbo Wide girdle of interconnected loops of split rattan, worn around the hips. The colour of the rattan signifies the status of the wearer, i.e., red for childless women, red and black for mothers.
Loti A white cotton strip with a chain of small silver coins (loti) running over the middle of the lilimbo.
Habo Silver dollar belt. Lotud women wear only one haboi.
haboi.
Porotina
Porotina Silver belt with a diamond-shaped clasp made by the Brunei.
Sigar Headband with red rattan rims. The narrow band is decorated with rectangular or square plates of embossed goldleaf or modern substitute. The hairbun hangs over the sigar.
Siwot Ornament for the head which is stuck into the hairbun. It consists of four bunches of red cloth and black cock feathers. Nowadays gathered in badminton shuttles. Strings of silver-green beads with bits of red cloth dangle over the forehead from the first bunch, and downward from the last one. The silver-green beads are a modern substitute for the iridescent wings of beetles that were used in the old days. It is worn during ceremonies.
Mandapun Stiff ornamental collar of red cotton with embossed gold or silver plate shaped as leaves, made by the Brunei.
Simpai Upper arm bracelet of hollow embossed silver.
Lansung Hollow embossed silver anklets. In the old days, the lansung were of solid brass made by the Rungus.
Karo A necklace made of mostly long barrel beads of glass, shell and carnelian. In between these are hollow silver beads and concave ornaments over a wooden base. Usually two or three karo are worn together. The cone-shaped ornaments are arranged symmetrically with the points downwards.
Lontugion Big karo: set of two necklaces worn crossed over the chest.
Giring-giring A set of approximately 12 brass slit bells used by the Tantagas (female ritual specialists) during ceremonies.
Tutubik A praying device made of turtle bone, used by the Tantagas during ceremonies.
Sandai Long sash draped over one shoulder to the front and over the next shoulder falling to the back.
Kokoro' on Necklace of small glass coloured beads. A few are normally worn by the tantagas.
Komburongo Used in ritual ceremonies by the tantagas, it is a small pottery jar [usually of the Ching period (1645-1911)] with a cloth-covered rattan handle, containing ritual plants and animal bones. The container is looped over the lower part of the arm. Decorative beads adorn the jar.
Costume of Men
Sukub Black cotton shirt with similar decoration as the women's blouse.
Binandus Trousers with a square piece of linangkit at the backside just under the waist. Older trousers have a very wide waist band.
Sundi Kain dastar headdress, folded in different ways. When two points stick out, the wearer has two wives and so on. Kain dastar headdress, folded in different ways. When two points stick out, the wearer has two wives and so on.
Supu A silver chain with an attached round silver tobacco container, worn around the waist.
Source : An Introduction To The Traditional Costumes of Sabah edited by Rita Lasimbang & Stella Moo-Tan, Published by Natural History Publications (Borneo) Sdn. Bhd in association with Department of Sabah Musuem, 1997
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